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Durafly Auto-G2  RC Autogyro Blog
by Mario I. Arguello (MIA Micro-FLIGHT)


About This Blog (Diary)

This blog, as has been MIA Micro-FLIGHT's direction, from the start, is aimed at promoting and improving the hobby through my comments, tips, mods, upgrades, instructional and flights-crashing-repair-upgrades videos, as well as products and services I offer through my web site.

It just so happens that I also love RC Autogyros for the unique satisfying experience they provide, once you get the hang of it.

What you will find in this Section

The Auto G2 has allowed me to have fun while customizing and improving it to a much higher level than the stock product offers. This section covers step by step my experiences with the product as well as instructional sections. I hope you find all this informative and the Upgrades I've made for them useful and fun!

About the Durafly Auto-G Family

The 2013 Auto-G2 Radio Controlled Autogyro, OEM by Durafly and distributed via Hobby King, is basically the same as the 2012 Auto-G with the exception of the rotor head and side mast plates which are drilled with a few extra holes for the Auto-Start Assembly (Pre-Rotator).  Version 2 also has a steer-able tail wheel and slightly different decals.

About MIA Upgrades for the Auto-G's

All the MIA Upgrades apply to both versions.

Sites I've shared this Blog Content with

At the start of my blog 03/08/2013 (August 03, 2013) I've also made similar entries at the  RCME Autogyro Forum as well as RC Universe and Hobby King Product Discussions and Reviews areas, so anyone interested in the Auto G2 can easily find this information and make the most of out this unique and wonderful product and hobby.  Unfortunately, I am no longer posting in RC Groups but you can come back to this blog or any of the other mentioned areas, as well as my You Tube channel MarioIArguello and find this information easily.

A Thank You Note

RCME, RC Universe as well as Hobby King  have been gracious in allowing me to talk honestly about these products and the upgrades I've been doing.  I am very thankful to these entities and I would urge you to visit them also as each one has a lot to offer. 

Without Google, You Tube, Facebook, Twitter, LinkedIn, E-Bay, Amazon, Paypal, and other similar entities,  it would not be easy to share information, and make available products online,  so a big thanks also to these mega giants. And of course to MIA Customers and Supporters.

Mario I. Arguello.

03/08/2013 11:51:12

So, let's start by seeing what's in the box......

I did this video with mind on an audience who maybe totally new and not familiar with RC autogyros and maybe wanting to see what these things look like and what goodies they come with. This maybe boring to some, so I am doing another video that will kick things into gear. Just need a good day to go fly it and mess with it to see where this model takes me. I do like the pre-rotator feature, but being accustomed to my own designs without one, I hope I don't get too spoiled with it.

03/08/2013 13:17:55

Out of the box

I noticed that the head has some friction, as would be obvious, by the added mechanics to pre-rotate the rotor. The other thing is that the model has an extra motor for the pre-rotator, added weight to content with, also for the less lively feel.

But all in all, it is a nice model and as many will appreciate the tradeoffs are minimal considering the added features.

I was testing the blades under a home made wind tunnel, as weather has not been favorable for a flight, and the blades spun up nice and smooth, with no pre-balancing. Not having to balance the blades yourself and obtaining even density on the molded foamies is the pro to them. I would favor them more, but I guess I am just used to woodies, as they have been the standard since the first RC helicopters were manufactured.

I've been doing some added work with this model before I maiden it, just a matter of getting the model tweaked and upgraded to my standards and likes.

I am not going to mess with the pre-rotator until I get some flights with it but I've oil all the exposed areas where friction is present. I may still get around 7 minutes but 1 +or - minutes is not an issue for me. A good 5 minutes is quite satisfactory, especially when you have a couple battery packs extra and you fly like I do for a bout 15 to 30 minutes, whenever possible, at the local park.

I wished fields, here in AZ, were green and level for miles. I'd fly there instead. Oh well I guess I'll have to maiden it at the local rocky mountain field.

05/08/2013 22:06:04

Talking about the hobby is as much fun for me as I am sure it is for many out there reading this.

I actually design RC Autogyros and other more complex as well as simple products, been doing it for close to my lifetime so far. Many products I make are Upgrade Kits to improve the performance, durability and looks of products that I feel require it, many are driven by suggestions from folks who are also looking for these things. This has have kept , and are still keeping me busy. I have 2 RC Ultralight -Microlight-Trike Kits I presently produce, The MIA RC MIni Robo Trike and the MIA EZ 2.0 Trike and I am adding more to this line, but a full RC Autogyro model kit has been a challenge to produce, because I am a perfectionist and not having a way to make consistent blades has been the block. I am a huge fan of anything that has a rotor on it as well as ultralight aircraft.

About RC Autogyro Blades

Let me talk a bit about blades. The way most careful DIY's make them, including myself, wood has to be selected for even density and weight, this requires meticulous careful work, balsa has to be laminated to hardwood, then sanded to near perfection, either by hand or by more elaborate methods, which are not easily accessible to the DIY. So without a way to make blades easily and more importantly consistently in weight , density , etc. it is difficult for a one man operation. Nevertheless, it is possible with the proper equipment. As I mentioned in my MIA MPG thread (one of my favorite AG), I am still going to produce an RC Autogyro kit of my own and it will be in similar lines to the ones I have already shown in my other RC Autogyro Threads.

Auto G-G2 (Same Architecture, Great for Customization)

The Auto G2 is a very nice kit, as I mentioned in my first video here, a product of great interest to me because I think it opens new doors for newbies to this RC area of the hobby.

It certainly has raised my interest level as well, from a design point of view, as this happens to be also a great part of my hobby and I bought it to really have fun with it not only flying it, but also customizing it, as this model lends itself very nicely for such.

I did a very nice Ultralight Conversion Kit for the GWS Slow Stick and I did a similar kit for the Auto G/G2. Because I find them more interesting with a custom look. A personal thing of mine since I had my first erector set when I was 5, I've never left a product intact, as there is another world of fun in customization.

Pusher Vs. Puller

If I had to choose between a puller and pusher RC Autogyro design, I would lean towards the pusher, Bensen style like my own 2009 MIA BBW (one of my favorites), this is perhaps a bit biased towards my own designs, but if you were to design your own to the way you like it , I am sure you would say the same thing.

mia bbw july162013-1.jpeg

Just something sexier about a pusher AG.

As I mentioned in another thread most of my RC Autogyro designs rely strictly on the blade design and rotor head for pre-spin up w/o the need for pre-rotator, more so during ground take off which is trickier as opposed to hand spin up and toss. Here is one video that is a good example of that.

Pre-rotator and Foamy Molded Blades

I have tried my own pre-rotator setups in my own designs, but I often found them more elaborate and being a mechanical minimalist, I opted for making sure the blades were designed correctly and with some added tricks of my own to make them spin faster than the more typical basic RC autogyro rotors, so they take off ground in very short distances. The trick is replicating this for others if I were to produce a kit. This is where I think the Auto G has the upper handle, as the blades, as far as I tested them, are consistently well balanced and this has to do with the manufacturing techniques to produce a molded foamy blade with even density.

A photo of my AutoG2 as It sits awaiting take off clearance from the weather channel.

mia edge racer upgrade kit auto g-g2.jpg

06/08/2013 22:34:16

The MIA MPG is compact and easier to transport in a small car. Hopefully I can put together a kit of such soon. But regardless who makes a kit, I just want to see more regular people flying these things.

Here in the USA, there is a good number of RC Autogyro enthusiast but it is not enough, and I want to help remove the fear from first timers and promote this area of the hobby which has been under rated, due to these models being harder to fly. With the proper approach, the right model, setup and some hands on RC models, there is absolutely no reason to not try this model.

Continuing with my diary...

I had a chance to test fly it , no surprises there, I love the way the blades spin up, but I already had a feeling they would, after testing them in a wind tunnel.

About some of the Upgrades I made for the Auto-G's

The why's of the MIA Racer G2 KIT upgrades for the Auto Gs.

The Mast Cover

The mast cover was the first thing I did, because it shows up quite obvious and with the exposed mast plywood supports, looked unfinished. The Auto G has nice molded body but I wanted to provide a more finished look while making the model more aerodynamic.

The Pilot Head

I like a certain types of pilot figures on my models and so it was natural for me to add one of the pilots that I offer for similar size rc plane models, as well as the MIA GWS Conversion kits, RC Ultralights and Trikes.

I was debating using a full pilot head with torso, and smaller , because this does not show well on a "free-style' model of this size and shape, if you make it scale like, so I played with the head size until it looked just right. I wanted the head to be an added orientation reference mark "aid" and this was the other defining factor for its particular size. In flight the model shows very well with the pilot head and encourages confidence in flights.

The Motor Cowl (Cover)

This was more for aesthetic reasons and to provide a nice flow with the shape of the stock body and the mast cover and pilot head.

The LG Strut Covers and Wheel Pants

Same reason as for the motor cowl, but I also wanted a bit more lateral stability, and thus the strut covers, which double up also as vertical stabilizers.

Color Options

I love to dress up my models and have the option ready at my fingertips to do so so. I often get tired of one color and if its just a matter of simply switching color it makes things more enjoyable, while personalizing your model.

I elected the bright green as in my personal model in the first photo, because this blends well with the already stock decals colors, but a royal blue, white or black parts work also well, as they compliment the stock artwork and show clearly against the sky.

More custom colors such as red , yellow, orange , silver and olive drab are the other options, but these work better with my own custom matching color decals which I am creating for fun.

Rotor Head Flex Plate

Because this is a standard part I make from G10 proper thickness (varies with model size and weight) and use in all my RC Autogyro designs, I couldn't help but to make one also for the Auto-G/G2. On this note let me just add that after giving the Auto G2 another closer look at the rotor head parts, I don't think the original flex plates that come with the Auto-G are going to break easily, but just in case I wanted to have my own which have been tested and proven in similar size models. This part is an integral bonus part of the MIA Racing G2 Kit.

Ok so let go fly this thing ! Video in process... stay tuned, the fun has just started!

08/08/2013 01:40:26

Here is a recent video I did to follow up on the first one in this thread, p/o my diary with this great flyer.

The AutoG2 is allowing me to get really creative with it. As much as I love flying I think I love more customizing things. Please take this as an artistic work.

The video unfortunately shows the green parts a bit dull, in real life the green parts are really bright, almost like a hot green, this shows more realistic to the actual color in the photo in my previous post.

I got some request for some customized layouts and I will post these next.

I still need to edit the flight video, as soon as I can get some free time away from the design bug that has bit me upon getting the Auto G.

08/08/2013 22:01:27

About the Auto G/G2 stock blades

The stock blades have a perfect airfoil hard to compete with hand made blades even some of the best woodies I've made "by hand". So this is going to be interesting to compare with with the blades I will be manufacturing with the new industrial tool that is almost complete.

About the Rotor Head

As I mentioned in my videos, and as others have experienced with the original as well as V2, the weak link is the rotor parts, in particular the plastic flex plate. Now as most people have been doing simply making a flex plate from fiberglass, or PCB material and even plastics is OK, if you do it carefully.

I am using my own CNC cut composite Flex plate that has proven airworthy in my own RC Autogyro designs. The more precise this plate is manufactured the smoother the head will spin. Making one by hand hand has its pros/cons, the pro is that if you have the correct material at hand it is simply a matter of making a triangular plate and drilling some holes, the con is that when drilling by hand there is room for tolerance error in the precision of the spacing of the holes and rotor smoothness needs to precise. Rotor Head part geometry and tolerance precision is very important.

The MIA FLEX Plate (this is the bonus part in the MIA Racing G2 Kits)

This is my own CNC manufactured rotor head flex plate and it is of particular thickness so hat it works aerodynamically and mechanically better than the stock. It also has specific MIA geometry that not only is more aesthetically pleasing , standalone or as part of the existing other rotor head parts, but also has some mechanical advantages that have been tested to allow the rotor to spin smoothly as in my MIA MPG RC Autogyro videos.

mia rotor plate upgrade kit auto g2-600.jpg

08/08/2013 22:01:27

The Auto G2 with a few of the available MIA Upgrade Color Parts and Vinyl Kiss Cut Decal/Paint Schemes

mia edge racer auto g-g2- army grn-600.jpg

mia edge racer auto g-g2- yel-600.jpg

mia edge racer auto g-g2- blu-600.jpg

mia edge racer auto g-g2- red-600.jpg

08/08/2013 22:41:31

Improved look of the MIA Integral Strut Covers/Wheel Pants Parts.

While designing the Strut covers-wheeI pants, I wanted to keep this assembly lightweight yet attractive.

I started with separate wheel pants and separate struts, but decided on the combined parts for ease of installation. Separate parts are always involved more parts to deal with, more assembly and more weight.

SO the trick here was to come up with a single lightweight unit that works and looks good.

I wasn't too happy with the original lightweight intregral Strut Cover -Wheel pants section and so I tweaked the part design a bit more and this is the result of such. I am more pleased with it, still lightweight, easy to instal and is more beefier, more attractive and I think the person this particular Red color kit is going to, will too. He probably doesn't know I've done this enhancement. The Pilot head needs the vinyl visor cover and the cowl is still green because I just wanted to see how the new LG parts looked on the model. If you like it let me know.

mia edge racer lg covers auto g-g2- red-600.jpg

12/08/2013 03:17:06

The full MIA Racer G2 Kit, in Red, with "custom vinyl decal sheet". Customer supplied image was reworked, resized, and placed over MIA Graphics to complete the body side panels and stabilizer decals. Color scheme red-white-black works extremely well and complements the red molded parts.

This customer was a pleasure to deal with, I ended up doing the custom personalized graphics at no extra charge. I truly enjoy doing this for people who appreciate this customized art-form and can also enjoy it once it is on their model.

durafly auto-g g2 upgrades - mia racer g2 kit-  custom graphics - rc autogyro-600 .jpg

12/08/2013 03:46:37

The Emperor's New Clothes

A change of clothes from the bright green to my favorite model color "Yellow and Black". Full Custom MIA graphics to complement the new clothes. Ready for flight. Days are getting better and I should be able to get someone to video tape my next flight wth this color scheme.
auto g2 rc autogyro with mia edge racer auto g-g2- yel-600.jpg

Meet my buddy, Mr. Cooper

An extension to my family. He grew up next to my work shop seeing me tinker with models, hearing the noise of shop machines and the smell of fresh balsa and epoxy. He is expecting me to fly my custom AutoG2 soon, as he loves to watch flying models also.

auto g2 rc autogyro with mia edge racer auto g-g2- yel-best friend-600.jpg

12/08/2013 06:43:18

A closer look

Walk around fully decked out model

14/08/2013 10:02:51

Taking the MIA Racer G2 Upgraded Auto G2 for a Test Drive

While taking this model on test drive with the new clothes, I decided to make a quick how to fly the G tutorial, for beginner rc autogyro enthusiasts.

I had some nice flights, considering the day was windy. No especial settings on my transmitter or the links to control horns. I had the control horns to link on the rudder and the the elevator too sensitive and the first flight was a bit bouncy but manageable. Second flight was more docile.

The model is easier to see than the stock one and had no issues with orientation, except for the times the model faded into the rocky mountain, but I am used to flying in this field and can do it almost blind. Beginners should pick a wide unobstructed field for first flights.

Amongst all people who fly RC autogyros and have posted YT videos, I think I am the only only who flies in confined and obstructed areas. The basketball court, although a nice place to take off from, it is short and the Basketball nets, nearby trees and buildings, and the mountain are quite a challenge for flying these models.

16/08/2013 14:27:37

The MIA Flex Plate and MIA Racer G2 Upgrades survives crash, after aileron clevis comes off in flight and model looses control.

17/08/2013 03:17:42

The New MIA G2 Rotor Head Upgrade Kit

As seen in the attached photo, the parts in red , next to the MIA Ultralight Conversion for the GWS SS Kit going to a customer.

durafly auto-g g2  and gws upgrades - mia g2 rotor head- mia ul conversion kit - rc autogyro-600 .jpg

Reason for the Design

As a follow up to my previous post video.

There are many reasons that I designed this new Rotor Head for the Auto G/G2. But the most important one is that I wanted to reuse the stock blades which had been broken at the blade mounting tabs by drilling a new hole on the blade chord section where there is more meat for the mounting. But doing this and remounting it to the stock rotor head flex plate reduced the overall stock diameter of the rotor.

I also thought of many people out there that maybe have blades sitting in a bin broken at the mounting tab and Auto G's not flying because of not having a way to remount them and perhaps waiting for new blades to ship from Auto G distributors. The New MIA G2 rotor Kit resolves this dilema and does more.

The single Bolt Blade Mounting Method vs Double Bolt Mounting (Stock Auto G/G2 rotors)

Another reason was that I didn't favor the stock head design "double Bolt mounting feature" as this is a big problem and reason for many busted blades, which could be saved with a better head design and mounting method. Having said this I am still supplying the MIA Freebie flex plates with the MIA Racer G2 kits, and this plate although better than the stock as my previous videos showed, it was made to simply replace the stock, and be more crash-proof, but was not designed to be use with modified broken tab stock blades or single hole mounting blades (New or old) .

About the new MIA G2 Rotor Kit Flex Plate (MIA Vs Standard DIY Delta Plates)

As discussed in my recent video about this head design, there are a number of features built into the plate design and so it is not a typical DIY delta plate or as supplied by some online sellers. Although also made from G10, which has been the standard material of choice since early RC helicopters, the MIA G2 Rotor Head plates have specific geometry and MIA trademark features. One of them is the specific way in which the blade shimming is done. Other features have to do with the plate's blade function enhanced dynamics as a result of its particular geometry.

Here is a comparison photo to show the obvious differences in a typical Delta Flex plate and the MIA Design. In this photo there is also the MIA Blade Drill Jig that is supplied as part of the kit to allow broken as well as new blade to be prepared for the much better single hole mount. More on this is in the associated video.

mia g2 rotor head - auto g2.jpg

For comparison purposes here is the simpler MIA Freebie Flex plate. Note the size difference.

mia rotor plate upgrade kit auto g2-600.jpg

MIA Freebie Flex Plate (black Part) with New Stock blades = Stock Rotor Diameter = MIA G2 Rotor Plate with Modified single bolt Mount Stock Blades.

auto g2 upgrades - mia g2 rotor head kit -600.jpg

17/08/2013 04:09:09

MIA G2 Rotor Head Video

Kit Contents, Blade Preparation, Installation and Test Flights.

19/08/2013 09:22:52

MIA G2 Landing Gear Reinforcement, Adjustable Battery Mount, Keychain Camera Mount

Another Upgrade I did as a result for the need to reinforce the LG socket area better and have a way to adjust the CG by relocating the battery.

I've been putting the Durafly AutoG, and my upgrades though a lot of abuse to see how well the stock and upgrades hold.

The Auto-G has been holding quite well, Body Mast and Tail section, but the LG and rotor head areas have taken most of the punishement during some very harsh testing.

The attached video segment is about the MIA G2 LG, Battery, Camera Plate I just completed , The Logic behind it and the Installation.

The following video one will be how these parts including the new MIA G2 Rotor are still holding after some brutal! testing in heavy wind conditions with some very interesting temporary blue blades I made while waiting for new stock blades to arrive.

23/08/2013 12:49:37

Auto Start Problems and Solutions - Electronic Soft Start Option and Clutch Slippage Repair

The Auto Start electronic switch on my Auto G stopped working, short life span, I had no more than 12 flights when the switch simply did not want to start the motor anymore. I did some troubleshooting with a VOM and the motor checked OK but the controller was dead. I ended up replacing the stock controller with a regular DC brush motor ESC, and got it back to normal again for a short while, but the rotor clutch was slipping.

So here is what I did. This video has some tips about how to go about removing the parts that are attached to the one way bearing shaft so to open up the gear box and access the internals for inspection and repair.

24/08/2013 01:18:06

Well, the Auto G could use a better electric start controller. It is quite a challenge to install the battery with the bulky controller in the tight space of the body and routing the wires through the back , into and under the body is not easy for heavy and large hands.

The greatest thing about the Auto G is the molded EPP body and stabilizer parts! I love them!

I have been putting the Auto G though a lot of abuse testing the MIA upgrades, and it is holding equally well. I finally crashed, nose in hard and from the impact, finally bent the thrust motor shaft slightly, broke the stock plastic motor/LG holder at the motor socket end, the MIA LG reinforcement intact.

The thrust motor is also a very nice part, it's taken a lot of abuse. I never cared for the CD-Rom like shape motors and from a glance I did no think the motor was going to hold, but in all honesty this is also another best part of the Auto Gs. See my next video "How I straightened the shaft".

This may sound as I am recklessly flying my Auto-G, but it is part of my job as a designer and mfgr to fully test my products, as well as the model that my upgrades complement, and so many of the crashes I've been putting the model though are methodical and structured to simulate similar conditions as if a beginner pilot would experience, but some of them have also been due to pilot error and forgetting to secure things carefully. Things, typically, we all do, at some point, as RC enthusiasts.

I am having a ball flying , crashing, repairing and upgrading the Auto G.

25/08/2013 00:30:11

How to Straighten the Auto G/G2 Motor shaft after a hard crash

Ok so here is a video on how to do it. This is aimed at someone new and unfamiliar with some of these repairs and processes that some of us model enthusiasts already know.

As typical, in problem solving, there is more than one way to approach a problem with a solution, and depending on ones, experience, skills and tools available, one way may work better than another. This is what works for me.

25/08/2013 03:14:53

Hard Nose Dive Crash Results

Here is a video after taking the Auto G completely apart to repair some of the parts that broke after my last flight which ended up in a hard nose dive. I'm in process of making a couple more upgrade parts and rebuilding it.

Once again the model has proven beyond my expectations with some of is stock parts as well as with the MIA upgrades installed thus far.

25/08/2013 10:16:07

A little bit of chocolate to expose a missing detail

This next video has an important point I forgot to mention in my original video of the MIA Racer G2 Kits and it deals with the way I designed the mast cover and fasten it to the mast. So I will leave this diary with this one while I work on the next upgrades and rebuild of the Auto G. It can only get better and it does!.

28/08/2013 10:54:06

People often refer to Red Vehicles as "Hot" "Fast!" and "Devil Like"

Here is an all decked out Auto-G/G2 with a devilish look, put together by a customer of mine. It sports all the MIA Upgrades, thus far. This customer requested his handle name and racing number be printed on the decals. With his permission, here are the photos he took, sure is quite a contrast with the Industrial Yellow I like.



MIA LG Reinforcement-Battery-Camera Mount Plate shown below with a strip of
velcro customer installed to mount a small RC Airplane camera.




29/08/2013 06:21:00

The Emperor's New Crown

Here is a much beefier rotor head hub to replace the thinner stock one.

I designed this part after the stock one broke at the center stem. The stock one is very light and for the most part and flights I've had with it, lasted a good while, but I wanted a more robust hub not only to replace the stock one, but also to be more in line with the, also more robust, MIA G2 Rotor Single Bolt Blade Mount Flex plate design.

The Hub and flex plate assembly mounts over the Durafly Rotor Shaft with a snug fit and it requires one to twist it into the threaded shaft till it bottoms with the shaft nut. The stock locking hardware and rotor button is installed over the Hub, like the original one.

08/09/2013 09:36:33

Rebuilding the Auto-G2

Well, my Auto-G2 has been under the scalpel and while at it, I've been doing some redesign of some components.

One of these is the LG Socket and motor bracket that broke in my last flight, the crash was pretty hard .

I was thinking of ways to redo the part so that it is more universal, meaning that it will not only work with the Auto-G/G2 but with any RC autogyro that requires an integral LG and motor mount support.

There is no way to redo the original part in its exact form since the part is injection molded and some of the areas that make up the socket for the bent wire LG are backed up with walls that are as thin as 0.040 inch. This is about the standard in wall thickness for injection molded thin wall sections. So I had to start from scratch, but I wanted to maintain the same or close socket dimensions.

In order to retain the bent wire LG in similar fashion to the plastic molded socket, I made two plates from G10 with strategically placed steel bolt holes, these make up for the retaining wall sections, but are a lot more durable by nature of stronger materials than the stock plastic part, the assembly is slightly heavier which actually will aid in bringing the nose down a bit and better CG. The Stock AutoG2 is is a bit tail heavy and the model tends to balloon in flights. The tail directional wheel could be made lighter, but I actually like that part as is and it is another of the better components of the Auto-G2.

My motor mount was made up of aluminum spacers with the proper mounting angle offsets. Steel bolts run through the motor socket and spacers all the way back to the G10 plates and are held secure with locknuts.


Open Heart Surgery - New DC Conversion (a kind of Mechanical Facelift)

While working on the upgrade LG-Motor mount, I designed a completely new and original DC head conversion kit, this required a redesign of the Pre-Rotator mount to bring the auto-start motor-gear box closer to the front , and a couple new brackets were fabricated. This new location, once again aids in better CG, and allows a person to access the components easier. This new location along with the new MIA pivoting bracket parts, also allows the flex cable to be more manageable with the new MIA DC Head (Pitch and Roll on rotor, no Elevator) components.

I was contemplating making a more typical pre-rotator with the pre-rotator motor as part of the rotor assembly, but I never liked the idea of putting more weight on the rotor than it needs. I will go as far as beefing up the rotor head but a pre-rotator motor, gear and one way bearing mechanics on the head adds considerable weight for a model that really needs to be light at the top most section as the Auto-Gs. This is one reason I believe the original Auto-start assembly sits at the lower section of the mast. Makes sense to me.

The only thing I don't quite like is that the pre-rotator motor sticks out at the front an in way of the battery cover hatch and the pilot head that I wanted to keep. This is not a problem for me because I fly with the battery under the belly so I will redesign the front covers so it is aesthetically pleasing, if I decide to keep the stock pre-rotator. But it is a give and take situation, I may simply keep the pre-rotator out completely as I am not that crazy about pre-rotators and I am Ok taking a brisk walk or run with the a hand pre-spin up on the rotor. It is probably more healthier this way, I get my dosage of exercise too.

Attached photos to accompany my description.

The following photo shows the stock Auto-Start Assembly new location and brackets relative to the the new MIA DC head, in process.



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